IMG 0070One problem with rain forests is that they are wet. It rained in the night (apparently) and the condensation in our room was remarkable. Now we understand why the heater was on when we arrived, not a mistake but intentional - otherwise the room would be suitable for Fungus the Bogeyman.

This is the first good nights sleep, partly because we are tired, partly the lower altitude and partly I suspect the corn liquor.

The return on the train was uneventful with more dramatic views of the mountains and, since I scored the window seat this time, spectacular views of the workings of the railway and the sight of a looney hitching a ride over the gorge with repair materials. How much effort must it be to repair the line after falling into the river which it does regularly?

IMG 0067The journey was only marred by the continual, loud local music (if that's the right word). There is only so much Pans' Pipe music that the western ear can stand!

At present the end of the line is Ollanta, and the nearby Ollantaytambo is home to the Inca "Temple of the Sun". This temple is incomplete but provides an insight into how the Inca's moved and worked the massive boulders they used in their constructions as there are lots of incomplete stones left where they fell when the Spanish invaded.

IMG 0068After lunch (a tour bus place mercifully empty on our arrival) we stopped at a very quiet market claimed to be local but clearly catering to the tourist souvenir trade. There are many many stalls all selling much the same stuff, none of which we can carry.

An alpaca zoo(?) was on the itineray for the way back but having seen them at close quarters at lunchtime we felt we could omit this part of the intinerary.

By late afternoon we are back at the Novatel in Cusco. 


We have to go into the main square to go to the ATM for yet more money and there was some sort of demonstration going on. A bit hard to fathom what exactly but we thought it prudent to beat a retreat.

IMG 0069Tripadvisor makes much of the Cafe Restaurant Aldea Yanapay which turns out to be highly quirky with a fantastic decor. Menus are in children's books and move on from there. Sadly the wine is bad and the food distinctly average. Worse yet we both get back to the thankfully nearby hotel with a great need to go to the loo. A need which persists all night!

To make matters much worse tomorrows pick up (Sunday morning) is at 6:45am.

Then as a cherry on top at 9:30 the travel agency ring to say there is trouble in La Paz on the 24th and we cannot stay in Puno tomorrow night but must carry on directly to La Paz by bus. This means about 16 hours on the bus and at this stage no hotel at the end of it.

This would make turn it from a holiday into a test of endurance so no - that's not happening.

Anyway after several conversations I suggest that we simply stay in Puno for an extra night and shift back the programme in Puno and La Paz by one day. OK say the night staff and we finally hit the hay at midnight. So much for an early night.