OrvietoLeft to our own devices again we deferred the rental car until the afternoon so we could have a look around Orvieto. We did worry that this might take more than a morning but no, that was quite enough, the place has become a tourist trap. Bus loads of Germans and Americans fill the streets in some cases swopping tales of property values in Sun City wherever in the USA that may be.

Despite Orvieto's very scenic nature unless you have been overcome with a desire to pay twice the going rate for tourist tat that you will throw away within 5 minutes of your return home then give the place a wide berth. Best plan? Give it a wide berth anyway!
 
  We took the ATG self guided walk until just before 11 then hot footed it back to the Dummo to take the Underground tour that Aurora had recommended. Yes it was very good but there were quite a few more Etruscan caves, dovecotes and Americans that we wanted to see. There are only so many of any of them that you will want to see too, unless like Dorothy you are pinning for Kansas.

Orvieto CavesBy the time we had finished all this tourist stuff we headed back to the hotel and got them to call a cab to get us to Avis. Pepe sorted us with a new Opel something or other in diesel and after excellent instructions in it's use we set of towards Todi and carried on to Gubbio, based on a recommendation in the good old Lonely Planet.

Apart from the oil light coming on (then going off a bit later) we traveled without incident despite lots of panic about driving on the 'wrong' side of the road. The hotel Residenza Le Logge was as good as the LP said but not as cheap. A minor downside is that the bath will not really hold a Fiat (buy the book) but yes it is very big. There was no way we could make the bubbles work :(

Drinks in the Piazza were every bit as good as we could have hoped, the people watching is fabulous, particularly as tomorrow is market day and the square must be cleared of cars.

The bath at Residenza Le Logge, GubbioSadly dinner at the Locarda del Duca was a grave disappointment. It must be said that the service was appalling even though what food did eventually arrive was not too bad. At one point at the table behind us one of the Italians mimed slitting his wrists he was so hungry.

So far (apart from a very poor choice of restaurant) Gubbio has exceeded expectations. Tomorrow will be the clincher.