Breakfast on the Lake Maggiore waterfront next to an automatic laundry (my underwear is positively shining now) costs €7 with free internet access (another €7 for the laundry). Much better value I thought.
We took a ride up the western shore of the lake but were defeated in the end by a long traffic jam before we could head west and do a circuit through the hills. We wondered whether this was people queueing to get into Switzerland on a Sunday night or roadworks. We gave up and never found out. Be warned the road here is narrow.
As it turned out we were well served by this and took a single track back road up into the mountains. Lunch at a wayside cafe rejoiced in a fabulous view but was otherwise less than memorable. The road and views however were spectacular. Seriously even narrower then the lakeside track though!
Overall our impressions of the area are that it is fabulous but we suspect that the summer might be unacceptably busy.
Back at the Hotel Simplon we decide on a third night and we shall have a bikeless day tomorrow and catch the ferry out to the islands. We have a timetable!
The hotel Simplon has an amazing 'secret passage' connecting it with the neighbouring hotel Dino(?). Filled with copies of famous artworks it's mostly deserted but a good way to get between the two.
Anyway ack to our breakfast spot for a drink and more of their internet.